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These days, the focus has shifted to paddlefish, a distant cousin of the sturgeon.
"Chattanooga beluga," he calls it: bluish gray eggs that come from the paddlefish, a strange-looking boneless bottom fish with no gills and an eponymous paddle-shaped snout.
Conservationists now worry that the paddlefish, a dinosaur-age filter feeder with a head shaped like a giant Popsicle stick, may need to be protected like the sturgeon.
Paddlefish, a close kin of the sturgeon, makes a pleasant, mild-tasting roe that typically sells for around $30 an ounce.
Mr. Wade banned Caspian caviar from his restaurant, instead serving roe from the paddlefish, a relative of the sturgeon that is native to the southern United States.
Mr. Yazbak sold him what he claimed was Russian sevruga caviar, but DNA testing proved it was not; the vast majority of the eggs came from American paddlefish, a protected species indigenous to the United States.
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Some distinct morphological differences of Chinese paddlefish include a narrower, sword-like rostrum, and a protrusible mouth.
Mon Dieu! Kahrs, for one, has bred an alternative species, the home-grown paddlefish -- a cartilaginous fish similar to sturgeon.
Now, biologists have found that the paddlefish has a sophisticated way to enhance these signals that may someday prove useful to people struggling with sensory impairment.
American paddlefish are a popular sport fish where their populations are sufficient to allow such activity.
American paddlefish are a highly derived fish because they have evolved with adaptations such as filter feeding.
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