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The flag of truce — actually an ordinary dish towel a Confederate captain had recently bought in Richmond — used at Appomattox.
Queso flameado, a crock of baked cheese and chorizo, is an extraordinary version of an ordinary dish.
The subtle pungency of acid — A glug of red wine in beef stew, capers in pasta, a squirt of lime across a taco — can give an ordinary dish a mouth-watering brightness.
There were a few also-rans, too: lackluster risotto fritters, an ordinary dish of fried chicken cutlets topped with mozzarella and tomatoes, and beef tenderloin medallions that were tender but overcooked; they would have been nicer pink in the center.
Queso flameado, a crock of baked cheese rendered slick by the oil from chorizo in its midst, was an extraordinary version of an ordinary dish, and the corn tortillas that accompanied it were light and fresh.
The subtle pungency of acid A glug of red wine in beef stew, capers in pasta, a squirt of lime across a taco can give an ordinary dish a mouth-watering brightness.
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Even the more ordinary dishes on the menu are better than their counterparts in comparable, modestly priced restaurants.
This is what Tasquita is like: "ordinary" dishes done in mind-blowing fashion, alternated with incomprehensible offerings (blood sausage with puréed squash masquerading as tapenade; sea anemone with fried seaweed; raw wild mushrooms of varying thicknesses) — all presented by an old-time chef who leaves the kitchen to take orders, chatting about what's best that night.
But on a menu with mostly French leanings (moules frites; white beans with crumbled merguez sausage; Burgundy snails), there were almost as many ordinary dishes and a few out-and-out duds, the overpopulated "duck" pissaladière — with duck gizzard, duck confit, duck liver and a duck egg — foremost among them.
Little twists add flair to otherwise ordinary dishes: a pillbox-shaped serving of tiramisu has chunks of cracked chocolate at its core, a graceful curl of sage crowns the boneless Cornish hen ($14.50), the rack of lamb special ($19.50) is perched on a nest of mushrooms, sheets of shaved, almost translucent Parmesan cheese rest atop the Caesar salad and risottos ($14.50).
For a celebrity blowout like Elton John's annual White Tie and Tiara charity gala at his mansion near Windsor Castle, ordinary dishes won't do.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com