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No one will tell you that the kitchen prefers your entire order at once; there are no reservations, no host stand, and no corner booths for visiting oligarchs — or even for Martha Stewart, who dropped in a few days after the restaurant opened and sat with her handbag in her lap at one of the tiny zinc tables like everyone else.
After demonstrators smashed the windows of gentlemen's clubs in 1886, a correspondent to the Times opined: "When there is a riot in any kennel of hounds, the huntsman and whips do not wait to get the special orders of the master, but proceed to restore order at once".
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Because of that, he said, careful pacing and precise juggling of different tables' orders were crucial, and it was the reason the restaurant had to hold to an entire-order-at-once policy.
Send orders at once".
All these orders at once? Oh, my God!
"Everybody talks at once; everybody orders at once; everybody eats at once; and everybody seems anxious to pay at once" is how a New York observer described the scene in 1868.
His nepotism has aroused the ire of the troops of the 9th Division, who threaten to assassinate their new officers unless an advance is ordered at once.
("What size are the Blue Points?" I'd asked at the restaurant, having no idea how many oysters one orders at once. "Normal size," answered the waiter, unhelpfully).
He was a gigantic Jamaican who always sang off-key and could handle a half-dozen orders at once and still keep his grills spotless and his platters looking as if he pulled them from an ad in a magazine.
The cornermen also reflected the direction of the fight: there was panic and crosstalk in Tyson's corner, with two or three people trying to issue orders at once.
The remark was sufficiently unguarded, and the readers' reviews on Amazon sufficiently enticing, that I ordered at once a copy of the long-out-of-print book and am I glad I did.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com