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Speedy resolutions are, of course, a picture-book necessity, but Lucas closes the curtain on Halibut's awkwardness a beat too soon.
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It would work well with a piece of halibut on the bone or a simple fillet of sea bass or cod, and would even go well with a salmon fillet.
Celebrated for its Brixham mussels, Bigbury Bay oysters and upmarket dishes such as pan-fried fillet of halibut on a roasted pepper and aubergine ragout, this is in a different league to most seaside boozers.
After that came a piece of halibut, crisp on the surface and moist beneath, on brandade and, below that, tapenade: fishy, salty, emphatic, unctuous.
They belong, appropriately enough, to the family Squalidae, and appear as willing to gorge on fresh halibut as on rotting polar-bear carcasses.
I'm a big advocate of taking that extra moment to blot liquid, whether it's the oil on sautéed halibut or the water on blanched haricots verts, because the final taste is cleaner and works more harmoniously with other elements like a sauce or a vinaigrette.
Jones, a Presbyterian missionary who spent years among the tribe, wrote that if a Tlingit "puts the image of his patron on his halibut hook, it will help him to have good success; on his paddle, to go safely over the deep; on his spoon, to protect him from poisonous foods; on his house, to bless his family".
He's been using poha to create a flaky crust on a halibut filet.
Opening APARTMENT 13 You'll find touches of Japan (miso butter on the halibut) and Latin America (chimichurri) from John Keller, the chef and an owner.
The guests, who numbered more than 160, dined on roast halibut with herbs, free-range chicken, potatoes cocotte, salad and a sorbet bombe.
Re William Grimes's "Waiter, Please Put a Lid on It" (Dining In, Jan . 16: A waiter who doesn't rhapsodize about the cilantro lime beurre blanc on the halibut special is likely to hear about it from a manager or chef.
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CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com