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Sushi Dojo is the sort of place where the customary glass of beer that a diner buys for the chef can evolve into a frosty carafe of sake from another customer a few seats away.
Dinners are available for $50 , $59 and $67; six varieties of sake from $5.90 a flask; in white wines, they also carry a German Riesling and a French Bordeaux.
A group from Decibel, a nearby sake bar, had come equipped with a bag of salt and a bottle of sake from a shrine in Japan for a special ceremony.
Along with the food there was more Champagne; some glasses of sake from Japan's Northeast, near where the tsunamis hit; more Champagne; and finally bottles of icy-cold Stolichnaya vodka, which slammed down on tables as if in Moscow – or at any rate Sammy's Roumanian restaurant on the Lower East Side.
In Tokyo, they are ending their day with a few glasses of sake from the north-east of Japan.
China continues to ban all imports of sake from Fukushima and nine other Japanese regions, citing continuing radiation fears.
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The Lambs' pleasure shows all over the menu, but nowhere more than in their playful selection of sakes — from the ladylike Cherry Blossom Water and the Very Gentle Genshu to the Devil's Quivering Tongue, which, it turns out, tastes like ouzo.
Signs in front of sake shops from around 1900 show carved calligraphy.
Bottles of sake range from $1.95 (for 180 milliliters) to $100 (for a two-liter specialty antique bottle imported from Japan).
"Without a doubt, almost all the modern innovations have made sake better," said John Gauntner, a certified master of sake tasting from Kamakura, Japan.
At a Shintō wedding the bridal couple perform a ceremony of drinking sake from lacquer cups.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com