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But there's plenty of progressive gastronomy around San Sebastián, including at Mugaritz, a relatively new addition.
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It is a product of progressive reform.
It is a triumph of progressive reform.
Cuomo is not some kind of progressive.
The patient died of progressive disease.
The young Spanish PR who is interpreting the words of this legend of gastronomy raises her eyebrows.
French cuisine was caught in a museum culture: the dictatorship of a fossilized idea of gastronomy.
Now Bocuse is both a global brand and the living incarnation of the French tradition of gastronomy.
Gaggan is nominally a "progressive Indian" restaurant known for a shapeshifting menu informed by the principles of molecular gastronomy.
Mr. Kitchin spoke passionately about France as "the home of gastronomy and of haute cuisine".
"It's becoming more standard in the world of haute gastronomy, but the world of haute gastronomy is rapidly shrinking.
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