Cultivating Atlantic bluefin tuna, environmentalists argue, could be even more harmful to the ocean than salmon farming.
But the open ocean, where salmon spend most of their lives, is something no one city, no one nation can control.
New dishes include terrine of ocean fish (salmon, octopus and swordfish) in aspic ($8); paper-thin slices of capon breast, red Belgian endive, with foie gras and seasonal greens with walnut oil ($15); and gnochetti with robiola cheese in a sauce of other Piedmontese cheeses ($16).
Ocean-going salmon returning to their river to spawn find their way blocked by dams.
Just as with the ocean-going salmon barges, there is a lot of work to be done before vertical fish farms become standard... but given rising food prices, the squeeze on land, the growing human population and the increasing taste for local food, perhaps its day is coming.
The American Heart Association recommends a meal of oily ocean fish (tuna, salmon, herring or mackerel) at least once a week, but less than 10percentt of Americans comply.
In the Atlantic, overfishing, habitat destruction, disease and parasites from farms have left only struggling remnant populations of the ocean's original salmon stocks.
At Esca in the theater district, well-herbed red beets provide the perfect contrast to the buttery and fresh ocean taste of salmon tartare.
To patients who choose active surveillance, Dr. Katz recommends fish, particularly oily ocean fish like salmon, Arctic char, Atlantic mackerel and sardines, as the best source of omega-3 fatty acids.
Instead, earlier plankton blooms in the ocean may mean salmon smolt reach the sea too late and starve to death.
