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In the book, Doctorow talks about pre-First World War America as a place where prosperity was proved by how much offal one could consume ("There was a new President, William Howard Taft, and he took office weighing three hundred and thirty-two pounds.... The consumption of food was a sacrament of success.... America was a great farting country").
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The shows were gory, with much chucking of bleeding offal scavenged from nearby butchers.
The table was groaning with dim sum, much of it featuring offal, which I adore.
I love eating offal as much as the next guy.
Thick scoops of a soft pig's liver pâté with toast and crunchy pickled red cabbage are much, much better; ripe, with the offal depth of an organ that has given its all.
Offal features heavily, as much in Tea Room's skewers ("One of my favourites is goose intestine, so springy and chewy; it's a texture you don't get that often [in the UK] but it's one we grew up with" says He) as in Peruvian anticuchos, AKA cow-heart kebabs.
It threw in artfully obscurantist provisions (eg something called internet connection records) that were designed to get privacy activists stirred up, much as one might throw bits of offal to distract a pack of menacing dogs.
I'd never liked meat much, although only the thought, and actuality, of offal, actually revolted me.
For instance, the industry uses a lot of offal, which is no longer consumed that much by the UK consumer.
Nothing pleases a certain kind of modern transgressive diner as much as seeing an obscure pig part or piece of offal on a menu.
I mean sometimes I get it without the offal on mornings when boiled liver just seems too much, and if I'm with someone else I make them get the jade noodles, tinted green with purèed spinach and tossed with Chinese barbecue, or the fragrant duck noodle soup.
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