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It was so good that I got carried away and hurtled through a half-dozen more dishes, including meaty slices of jumbo clam in a tart sauce of green tea, sea salt and yuzu juice (citrus juice and minced hot chilies), and thinly sliced poached duck with a gingered soy-and-red-wine reduction.
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It and a number of other more successful dishes, including an exemplary roasted salmon ($17) with a honey herb glaze, came with more accompaniments than the menu promised, including parsnips, baby carrots, asparagus and tomatoes.
Salads and vegetables, some served with eggs, and a few more substantial dishes, including burgers, round out the choices.
He also added far more substantial dishes, including slow-cooked ones that integrate Korean and French flavors and techniques, like the slow-cooked short ribs here, a traditional dish that Mr. Chang finishes with buttery potatoes and carrots.
The 2007 Mount Difficulty Target Gully Riesling from Central Otago, New Zealand, stood up to spicy, more complex dishes, including kungpao cashew chicken with its sugar, black Shanxi vinegar, chili peppers, and faint hint of Sichuan peppercorns.
Potpourri Henry Barone, who recently replaced Michael Meehan as the executive chef at Tupelo Honey in Sea Cliff (516-671-8300), han introducentirelytirely new menu that features more refined dishes, including toasted-almond and honey-glazed quail, serrano-wrapped loin of monkfish and braised pork shanks and Manila clams.
While there are traditional Italian dishes (such as mushroom ravioli with porcini and Parmigiano, glazed pork chop and apple strudel), distinctively more modern dishes including egg custard and king crab with shaved black truffles, lardo-wrapped prawns with rosemary lentils, and black truffle risotto with egg and sea urchin also grace the menu.
Next Wednesday from 4 to 6 P.M., the class will cover more substantial pumpkin dishes, including slow-roasted pumpkin soup.
Titled "Topf Secret" -- in German "topf" means pot -- the book details recipes culled by the service's foreign agents for more than 20 dishes including Iraqi tabouli, Bulgarian bean soup and American pumpkin pie.
Franck Deletrain, the executive chef of Café Centro, will teach a class covering more than eight dishes, including the turkey, from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Nov. 17 at the restaurant, 200 Park Avenue (45th Street).
Now run by Willie Mae Seaton's granddaughter, Kerry Seaton, the no-frills joint also turns out more southern comfort dishes, including cornbread, catfish, and smothered pork chops, for a price that is extremely forgiving considering this is a pretty famous Treme institution.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com