RECOMMENDED DISHES Seafood chowder, mixed green salad, arugula salad, shrimp and scallop salad, fried oysters, rack of lamb, lobster, salmon, scallops, sea bass, crab cakes, fettuccine with lobster and shrimp, filet mignon, roast chicken, Grand Marnier semifreddo, molten-center chocolate cake.
From the pre-September menu, thick, succulent chicken breast came topped with molten goat cheese.
Across the street at the Little Wisco counter, representing the restaurants Joseph Leonard, Fedora and Jeffrey's Grocery, goofy improvisations include featherweight falafels with molten Cheddar hearts ($8) and sriracha-doused chicken meatballs on a potato pancake with the perfect ratio of spring and sponge ($10).
The result is pure soul food, combining molten Manchego cheese, beans, and chunks of moist chicken breast in a smoky, spicy sauce.
WHAT WE LIKE Beef empanadas, warm goat cheese and mushroom tart, tuna and mango sashimi surprise, bruschetta di Parma; almond-crusted salmon, roasted pork loin, Tuscan grilled chicken, paninis; passion fruit mousse, chocolate molten lava cake, coconut flan, tres leches.
Almost as engaging, a free-wheeling chicken fiorentina -- layered chicken with spinach -- all under molten mozzarella.
But the skinwich seems practically restrained next to an invention by Jesse Schenker, the chef and owner of Recette in the West Village: deep-fried, chicken-skin-wrapped gravy, a crunchy parcel with a molten interior.
And so it was that we ate extremely well, starting with a hearty vegetable soup with a rich potato and chicken stock base; a rectangle of crunchy brick pastry stuffed with molten herbed goat cheese; and crisp samosalike triangles with delectably seasoned meat stuffings called chamuças.
WHAT WE LIKED Gnocchi, wild-mushroom purse, crab cake and grilled shrimp, grilled calamari; yellowfin tuna, artichoke ravioli and shrimp, chicken Santa Fe, wild salmon, pizza; wild-mushroom ravioli, veal Marsala; molten-lava chocolate cake, carrot cake, chocolate mousse, tiramisu.
WHAT WE LIKED Meatball lollipops, chicken lettuce cups, short rib sliders, shrimp cocktail, mâche salad, Margherita pizza, citrus salmon, molten center chocolate cake.
