Despite an occasional missing bread basket or forgotten dessert, the comforting food served by the genial Neil Rigg (Ms. Kaiser's son) and his staff is prepared and presented by delightful people who passionately want you to love it.
He'd look over the graphs from the scale while I made jokes about how I'd murder for a cider, how I missed bread more than certain dead relatives, or how split squats feel like your legs are trying to violently emancipate themselves from your body.
And don't miss warmed bread pudding with burnt caramel sauce.
It makes a fine shared opener, especially for diners who miss having bread at the start of a meal.
"But then again, I'd really miss their bread-and-butter corn".
Hirsi Ali misses Dutch bread and cheese; but when she lands at JFK, these days, she thinks, "home".
"I hate to say it," he explained, "but, after the novelty wore off, I had this cliché moment of a Russian émigré abroad: I really missed black bread.
It is the title of a 1938 movie by Marcel Pagnol in which the baker stops working because his wife has run off with a shepherd, and the villagers, missing their bread, organize to bring her back.
There's a chili recipe, too, that would go great with our can't-miss garlic bread.
