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Clam chowder has very few minced clams and too much underseasoned cream.
The clam chowder, a beige brew containing lots of minced clams, potatoes and corn, was also good.
James Beard, in his "Fireside Cook Book" of 1949, called the combination of cream sauce and poultry "a most appetizing and versatile dish". He suggested the addition of diced ham, or minced clams, shucked oysters or a handful of slivered pimiento.
Linguine alla vongole ($11.95) was loaded with tender minced clams; a casserole dish of baked lasagna ($9.95) contained alternating layers of mellow tomato meat sauce and parmesan and fresh mozzarella cheeses; and linguine pescatore ($12.95), a mountain of pasta enveloped in a husky, robust plum tomato sauce, yielded a trove of shrimp, clams, mussels and soft calamari rings.
Nonetheless, it is chock-full of flavorful minced clams and diced potatoes, and judiciously flavored with sherry.
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Grilled salmon portobello (with baby greens and roasted mushrooms in a balsamic reduction), and linguine with clam sauce (with fresh shucked clams, minced mushroom bits, garlic, basil and sun-dried tomatoes) were also satisfying main courses.
A savory seafood stew ($6) starter jammed with clams, mussels and minced vegetables that left mouths tingling and happy was but one example.
A handful of Fujianese cafes have come and gone in London: only one remains, Fuzhou in Gerrard Street, which is the place to go for gorgeous fishballs stuffed with minced pork and cabbage-and-clam soup with slippery rice pasta.
Starters could be as compelling as six deliciously briny little neck clams ($12 for six!), each topped by a modicum of herbed crumbs and minced pancetta, and each needing only a drop of lemon for a perfect finish.
BEST DISHES: Lotus root mini-wok, oysters with red wine sauce, spicy squid, razor clams with black bean sauce, salt-and-pepper seafood, steamed jumbo shrimp with minced garlic, sauteed bok choy greens, sauteed water spinach, beef with broccoli, shredded chicken with Chinese vegetables, shredded dried beef with shrimp paste and rice.
The fresh-shucked clams are chopped or ground and mixed into a stuffing, which typically includes bread crumbs, Tabasco sauce, minced onions, celery, peppers and often the Portuguese sausage chourica (reflecting the influence of Rhode Island's large Portuguese population).
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