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While Mexican ingredients may be much easier to find in New York now, skilled Mexican cooks are in short supply, even as Mexicans, men far more than women, make up more and more of the kitchen cooking force in New York restaurants.
Not for Mexican cooks, though.
Mexican cooks use cilantro and cheese, from Asia and Europe.
Ms. Goin looks to her Mexican cooks for approval.
"There are a lot of Mexican cooks in the kitchen," she said.
Just as French cooks understand that b?naise sauce suits some dishes, hollandaise others, Mexican cooks know salsas have different qualities and functions.
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"I speak a little Chinese, she speaks a little English," Armando Torres, a Mexican cook, said in Spanish.
Marin is funny for a time as the obsequious neighbour who cooked for Henry and sometimes borrowed his woman, but as the evening wears on, he starts to resemble the stereotypical Mexican cook in a western.
Mrs. Weiss suggested that Mr. Gar rido, who is Mexican, cook for Mr. Fox when he comes to the White House on an official visit and is honored at a state dinner.
Indeed, as of a couple of years ago, Viva Mexico (Chausseestrasse 36; no phone), a cozy hole in the wall in Mitte, may have held the distinction of being the city's only Mexican restaurant actually run by a Mexican cook.
They are among the legions of Lower Manhattan jobless -- the three Peruvians who used to clean apartments at Battery Park City, the Mexican cook from the concourse under the trade center, the pizza delivery man who whisked large pizzas up and down the towers.
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