Exact(8)
In terms of food, Ms. Japngie's menu plays with two pronounced and recurring themes.
The simple menu plays to the style of the chef, Jonathan Waxman, who lets seasonal ingredients shine.
The restaurant, with its stark white walls, beamed ceiling and wood floor, suggests a well-heeled taverna, and the menu plays it straight, for the most part.
The menu plays down the heat factor, and when one waitress took an order for both, she balanced wariness (I don't want to be blamed if you can't handle it) with daring (let's see what you're made of).
Although Saint Julivert works with exceptional seafood, and treats it with the care that fans of Ms. Raij and Mr. Montero have come to expect, the menu plays it safe more often than it should.
The menu plays Don't Mind Me again with "mackerel, grilled or braised". Just get the mackerel, because the kitchen knows how to cook it, whether over a flame or in a dark, smoky pan of garlic and gochujang.
The menu plays on dishes from three major South African cultures, Xhosa, Zulu and Ndebele, and variants like the spicy Malay foods brought by Indonesian conscripts who first came to Cape Town 300 years ago.
The menu plays off the Hirshhorn exhibition "What Absence Is Made Of". It's a great home for a drink like the Clarity, which, says beverage director JP Fetherston, starts out a brilliant, opaque orange (it contains butternut squash, among many other ingredients) but emerges from the clarification process as naked and colorless as vodka.
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