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And in terms of its seasonal comfort food — like an appetizer of fried squash blossoms with a crab relish ($11) and an entree of meatloaf with a pickled cherry salad ($16) — it's more in line with the previous Freeman-Meyer productions Cookshop and Five Points.
(How about beef with sauce gribiche, followed by a gratin of beef, mushrooms and breadcrumbs?) "A potato dish for Julia" and boeuf bourguignon are things she could cook in her sleep (that's good), and corn and salmon pancakes and "a small meatloaf with a French accent" are simple pleasures indeed.
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Though covered in the same sauce, barbecued chicken ($10.95) was too dry, but meatloaf ($9.95) with a brown onion gravy was tangy and moist.
Slow-roasted trout, moist and adorned simply with lemon and butter, is a terrific main course, while polpettone is a savory meatloaf made with a classic, slow-cooked gravy that the chef and owner, Frank Prisinzano, says is taken from his grandmother's recipe.
A dense, oniony meatloaf ($15), with a coarse rustic tomato sauce, accompanied by good garlic mashed potatoes and moist spinach; and a braised mountain of soft, nostalgic pot roast, swimming in a vegetable-studded horseradish pan gravy, were slide-down-the-throat treats.
Slices from a giant, hot, free range lamb meatloaf with fresh salad, in a hot pitta.
DEAR SOS: On the subject of meatloaf, the Food section published a recipe for a turkey meatloaf with spinach and thyme.
If you want to go with a meat substitute, you could try Candle 79's Seitan Piccata, a Seitan Roulade or a Country "Meatloaf" with gravy.
The recipes, a lentil stew with squash and apples and a country "meatloaf" with gravy, come from Ms. Coscarelli's new cookbook, "Chloe's Kitchen: 125 Easy, Delicious Recipes for Making the Food You Love the Vegan Way," to be published by the Free Press in March.
In one hand he held a packet of meatloaf with gravy, while in the other he ground a pile of crackers in his palm and added them to the mixture.
At Jean-Jacques's, a complete meal like meatloaf with garlic mashed potatoes, serving two people, is $10, and a grilled salmon with a vegetable for two is $14.
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