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Wave parameters computed from time series measured by buoys (significant wave height Hs, mean wave period, etc).
Changes in significant wave height and mean wave period due to the presence of the Wave Hub are presented.
Typically, model predictions are validated against observations of the sea-state parameters, such as significant wave height, peak wave period, mean wave period and mean wave direction.
Inputs like mean wave period, wave steepness, significant wave height and the breakwater slope are used as input to estimate the corresponding damage ratio value.
The mean wave period is calculated taking the ratio of the mean horizontal wavelength and the mean horizontal velocity of the wave 〈p〉=〈λ〉/〈v〉=4 h.
Tests with double-peaked wave spectra showed that the influence of the spectral shape on dune erosion was best represented by the Tm − 1,0 spectral mean wave period, better than the peak wave period, Tp.
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The mean wave periods are 〈p〉=4±1 h for the primary wave and 〈p〉=3±1 h for the secondary wave.
In the second part a joint frequency table of significant wave height, mean zero-crossing wave period and the mean wind velocity has been established, and statistical models have been fitted to the data.
This paper presents stochastic models for the significant wave height, the mean zero-crossing wave period and the wind speed for long-term and extreme estimations.
Wind speed, wind direction, fetch length and wind duration were used as input variables, while significant wave height, peak spectral period and mean wave direction were the output parameters.
The spatial analysis provides information for the entire Black Sea on; the averaged mean wave energy flux over the period 1979 2009, and the decades 1980 1989, 1990 1999, and 2000 2009, seasonal and monthly averages of wave energy flux during 31 years, variability indices for the 1979−2009 period, and variabilities on monthly and seasonality basis based on inter-annual averages during 31 years.
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