He would like to see cockles restored to their rightful place at the British table - for all that his own are pickled.
There are some well-made straightforward dishes, like fresh cockles, grilled to smoky sweetness.
WHAT WE LIKE Steamed mussels and cockles; wild mushroom ravioli, tricolor cheese tortellini Alfredo, shrimp fra diavolo, quattro formaggio, Firenze and Montalcino pizzas, filet Prespa, grilled salmon; cannoli, tiramisù.
Nothing warms the cockles like an album opening with a distorted drone like a malfunctioning life-support system, distant drums, and a rousing couplet such as "all soldiers are all going to die/ All little babies, they're all going to die".
churchillarmskensington.co.uk Nothing warms the cockles like carolling.
A shellfish-dominated feast included an overgrown canapé of an oyster po' boy, understuffed and too daintily dressed, alongside more free-form plates like salty, gaping cockles over brothy linguine and mussels in an approximation of pozole, earthy with cornmeal-fried hominy and Hatch chile.
"I don't disagree" warms our cockles like a comfortable cashmere sweater.
It's my favourite of all the Comic Relief TV spin-offs, because there truly is nothing that warms the cockles quite like watching celebrities being rubbish at baking.
Sensitively cooked and arranged on fat little soused cockles, mussels and seaweed-like strands of samphire, it's like a day at the seaside.
It's like the Dark Ages!' The cockles that do stay in this country are doused in vinegar and sold in jars.
