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"Lemon sorrel.
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The flavour will be more peppery than the sprightly lemon tang of sorrel but both work beautifully.
To finish the dish, the kitchen pipes in a kind of ice cream made with milk, cream, poached razor clams and lemon grass; seaweed, sorrel leaves and thinly sliced poached razor clams are tweezed onto the surface and out goes an ingenious artificial mollusk.
Under the company's guidance, a valley-side stroll can become a feast of wild food – think baked river trout tasting of lemon from wood sorrel and of garlic from wild ramsons.
Lemon grass and Jamaican sorrel grow beside the former garage.
As with lemon juice, the more sorrel you use, the more it has to be balanced with something sweet, starchy or creamy – it's a yin-yang approach to cooking that I find rather calming.
She pairs steelhead salmon with lemon rice porridge, kohlrabi and sorrel sauce, and chicken with sesame quinoa dumplings and red lentils.
The flavor combinations are avant-garde: asparagus with pear and red sorrel; peaches with lemon and saffron; peas and pink grapefruit with white almonds; red beetroot with lavender and crushed blackberries.
But the dish that draws the most people through the door is probably the rice bowl, which involves brown rice tossed with tart sorrel pesto, preserved Meyer lemon, house-fermented hot sauce, greens, a bit of feta and a poached egg, among other things, which a cookbook-writer friend assumed was an interpretation of an old Persian dish, but which happened to arise in Koslow's imagination.
perilla, or Japanese basil, is a special obsession of mine, bringing an aromatic whiff of superbasilly mint to fish and rice and eggs; French sorrel and mint freshen everything; lemon verbena plus boiling water is the only herb tea worth offering to guests you actually like.
Lemon zest can stand in for harder-to-find sorrel and everyday button mushrooms replace pricy chanterelles.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com