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She opened her own business, Bonnie Cashin Designs, in 1952 and for the two ensuing decades also designed leather, jersey, canvas and tweed clothes for Philip Sills.
Simple and understated basics are given a daring spin, rendered in diverse panels of different fabrics - the signature Coralie dress features leather, jersey, silk and wool, combined in a not-too-figure-hugging silhouette that is perfect for work or weekend.
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Leather corseted jersey dresses were also undermined by the fit.
Leather and jersey, twisted like rope, coursed over shoulders and hips of otherwise simple outfits.
Ann Demeulemeester's new idea was a miniskirt in leather or jersey with one side cut the length of the body.
A sleeveless red leather basketball jersey had the word "Supa" written on the front and a big purple leather fly stitched on the back.
On one rack alone were enough options to satisfy many other designers for a season or 10: gummy leather; languid jersey; crimped, paperlike cotton; fine-woven and slick knits.
The classics might have a little fillip: tufts of fur or feathers on a trench, pleated at the back; or a leather and jersey coat named provocatively "Black Swan".
There was hexagonally seamed leather and jersey sportswear from the 2009 winners, design duo Jena Theo, cut in challenging asymmetric shapes that billowed voluminously with each step and were knotted and patched into Frankenstein-esque textures.
One truly feels for Mr. Gaultier, because many of his spring clothes are wonderful — cream silk shirtdresses with corset belts, halter-style jackets, a slinky belted coat made of strips of white leather and jersey — but his show styling is the old poodle-hair styling of the past.
SHEKEL SHOCK Prices are what one would pay for modest artworks; one should factor in future special-cleaning costs since the designer favors temperamental fabrics, as in a leather-trimmed jersey dress, $795.
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