But the kitchen also understands and has a deep affection for classicism.
It is seafood cookery of the first order, executed by a kitchen which understands that timing is everything.
There are still their superb steaks, available in cuts from "reasonable", through "bring a friend" to "bigger than your head", seared by a kitchen that understands the ways of meat.
Game's a speciality – the kitchen really understands the difference between, say, roe, fallow and muntjac, and uses them in different ways, to showcase each deer's best points – as is offal: I love the goat keema with diced brain stirred in at the last minute.
Attuned to the rhythms of a very specific swath of semirural life in the post-Rust Belt Northeast, with its unremarkable restaurants, aging houses and cramped, crowded kitchens, Jones understands how people fill their days and look out for one another.
Anyone who has ever seen the film "Big Night," that marathon of Italian cooking, and promptly headed to the kitchen will understand what Sarabeth Levine had in mind after seeing the Wayne Thiebaud retrospective at the Whitney Museum of American Art.
Clients are also asked to fill out a short online questionnaire so the kitchen can understand their reasons for buying, which can include weight loss, increased wellbeing and better skin.
But, as the head of a busy family of four, I might be interested in an automated kitchen friend, provided it understands the needs and wants of my family when it comes to the foods we eat, how said food is prepared and the matter in which it is consumed.
He needed his kitchen team to understand what he wants.
