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Sheryl Crow, another performer in search of applause for kitchen prowess, has a new collection of wellness recipes, "If It Makes You Healthy".
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But there is still another low-cost option: "first tastings," at $7 to $12, that showcase the kitchen's prowess and can easily form the basis for a light meal.
I was delighted to see Benno's name because it recognizes that at many a top restaurant associated with a celebrity chef (Thomas Keller in the case of Per Se), the kitchen's prowess and performance often have as much, or more, to do with a less widely heralded helmsman.
While most chefs continue to work in relative obscurity, with median annual salaries ranging, according to the National Restaurant Association, from $30,000 for a sous-chef to $48,000 for an executive chef, a handful of charismatic individuals have made millions through their kitchens and marketing prowess.
"It was just beef, beef, beef, beef, beef!" recalls Victoria Shoemaker, the Julia Child of Rose Avenue, whose prowess in the kitchen occasions the need for crowd control.
In fact, for someone who so often experiences plate envy, remorse, and the all-consuming need to change my order (thereby chasing the server to the kitchen in a display of athletic prowess and insanity) the trendy custom of shared plates is something I fully support.
Green is also the author of "The Wild Table" (Studio; $40), and here, hunting with Chef Sean O'Toole of Hopper Creek Kitchen at the Hotel Yountville, her foraging prowess and passion uncover a world of earthly, edible delights.
She has praised community vegetable gardens, opened up her own kitchen to show off the White House chefs' prowess with vegetables and told stories about feeding less fattening foods to her daughters.
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