Party animals will be bored, because the nightlife consists of a few low-key bars and restaurants, most of which shut early.
But don't let the sensory overload eclipse a more serene, sophisticated side that's defined by lush landscapes, art galleries, avant-garde design shops and low-key bars.
When I went backpacking, in the late 90s, it was all about Thailand, with its talcum-powder sand, beach huts and low-key bars.
One block away was a bustling immigrant enclave where halal butchers hacked lamb shanks, folk music warbled from Turkish cafes and low-key bars catered to the late-night hipster crowd.
Florida Keys bars and bonhomie suddenly seemed much less interesting than the natural world literally at my doorstep.
No trip to Amman would be complete without a walk down Rainbow Street, a kilometre-long stretch of rag-bag antique shops, art galleries, coffeehouses and low-key bars in upper Jabal Amman, a five-minute trip away by taxi from downtown.
On Halloween night they presented themselves outside the Beatrice Inn in the West Village, a speakeasy-turned-restaurant-turned-low-key bar with a tough door policy.
After dinner or the theater in the West End, a good place for a drink is Mezzo, a relatively low-key bar and restaurant in Soho.
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The ground floor features a cocktail bar, self-service check-in terminals – where guests pick up their room key – coffee bar, breakfast area (breakfast costs extra, at £12.95 in advance or £15.50 on the day), and numerous sofas and tables with power points for its predominantly business clientele.
On land, you can opt for one of the laid-back, low-key outdoor bars along the harbor like Rackam Bar (North Church Street, George Town; 345-945 3860; www.rackamswaterfront.ky).
