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Mr. Cook relies heavily on these works, but he also introduces, with a deft hand, hundreds of illuminating passages from Kazin's unpublished journals to round out the picture, identify pseudonymous figures and correct the record, which Kazin, by his own admission, shaped for artistic purposes.
I made "Austin Diner-Style Queso," which Fain introduces with a reference to a scene in Richard Linklater's "Boyhood," for a birthday gathering, using a stash of roasted and peeled Hatch chiles — a gift from a friend from New Mexico — that had been languishing in my freezer for months, instead of the Anaheims that the recipe called for, plus fresh jalapeños, butter, onion, cumin, and cayenne.
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