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I thought I was in surfing shape, but I hadn't surfed those kinds of waves in a year.
Mark's joy in surfing adversity had often appalled me.
Witzig was as interested in everything surrounding surfing as he was in surfing itself.
So what they want you to know is this: They're not really interested in surfing.
In surfing there's only two degrees of separation, or one degree.
"In surfing it is hard to categorically say who wins or loses," Mr. Burnett said.
Clearly, we need laws, like those for truth in lending, to regulate truth in surfing.
But in the 40 years since "Gidget," women have established themselves in surfing culture.
Competition, however, sits uneasily in surfing culture, as it is seen as antithetical to the surfers' independent quest.
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"Storm Surfers 3D," the latest in a series of films about two Australian big-wave hunters and tow-in surfing, feels something like a breed apart.
Jaws is often credited with starting "tow-in surfing" — riding breaks so enormous that you need a Jet Ski to tow you in.
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CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com