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Every morning before dawn, he hiked there from the village below, along a switchback trail through the thorny garigue.
We had hiked there, under crisp blue skies, and I'd brought along some shortbread for us to eat.
Michele and I have hiked there dozens of times, often without encountering another soul — further evidence that the Valley is a great place for visitors more interested in seeing than being seen.
That was a spring of heavy water, which also washed away what had passed for an access road to Butugychag and rearranged the landscape of the camp itself, so that, as we hiked there, we kept finding ourselves on top of camp structures or, suddenly, inside what remained of them.
We did what campers have done in Yosemite since before John Muir hiked there: We hung our beef jerky, trail mix, candy and so on in a bag over a branch of a tree too high for a bear to reach from the ground and too far out for a bear to climb without the branch breaking.
When a rescue team hiked there soon after, it found nothing.
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I immediately understood the park service's admonition against hiking there alone.
If it's summer, spend a few days hiking there taking in rock paintings, waterfalls and wild tulips.
When Dean and I were young, we would hike there with our allowance, buying 100 Swedish Fish for a penny each at the marina shop.
While hiking there as a youth, Mr. Kershner slipped and fell beside the rock, and may have been among the first to read the professional-looking inscriptions.
Travel essentials Hiking there Turkey specialist Exclusive Escapes (020-8605 3500; exclusiveescapes.co.uk) offers seven nights' B&B at the Dionysos Estate and three days' guided trekking on the Carian Trail from £1,050pp.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com