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Specialty Food: Hot trends from last week's Winter Fancy Food Show in San Francisco: heritage grain products (quinoa, amaranth, chia) proliferate in snacks and pastas; pickling of beets, carrots, peas, okra and fruits is increasing; oats and almonds are coming to juice drinks; coconut is in everything, and the gluten-free category is expanding rapidly (gluten-free granola, anyone?).
For dinner, you can expect hearth-roasted meats, seasonal vegetables and heritage grain salads.
What kind of market is there for small batches of heritage grain, the flour that's milled from it, and the bread that's baked from it, given the economics of, well, everything?
What Weiser and Hammond, as well as the other farmers growing heritage grain and similar crops are doing, is not unlike what farmers three generations ago were doing, in some cases almost exactly.
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His father, John, is an organic farmer and archaeobotanist who specialises in growing and milling heritage grains.
"Twenty years ago, nobody really talked about the flavor of wheat," said Smith, who researches heritage grains from around the world.
So does Europe have any grains to compete? "[In Europe] the number of cereal products containing heritage grains, such as emmer … has increased from 9% in 2009 to 13% in 2013," says Tanvi Savara, food and drink analyst at Datamonitor Consumer.
We pretend that our food – now safe, plentiful, cheap, delicious – matters so much to our bodies that we must perfect it, elaborating a new necessity of pollution and taboo for heritage grains and laborious artisanal manufacture.
The popularity of breads and other baked goods boasting organic production or use of "heritage" grains has risen recently, presenting an opportunity for growers, but only if these crops do well in their region.
Thousands of heirloom vegetables and heritage grains already in federal and state collections could be rapidly screened and then used by farmers for a fraction of what it costs a biotech firm to develop, patent and market a single "climate-friendly" crop.
The pair now want to open a casual relaxed restaurant, serving locally sourced sharing plates like slow roast pulled duck with heritage grains and roasted cauliflower greens.
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