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A heating pad will be needed, and if you live where it gets cold you will also need a heating bulb.
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Above and below the sample holder are the infrared heating bulbs with heat shields.
Figures 3 (c) and (d) show thermal images of the neutral state (−2.5 V) and the doped state (+2.5 V), respectively, of the IR electrochromic device above a heated bulb.
One is the heat bulb currently keeping the coop a comfortable 40 degrees during this freeze, and the other is a regular CFL light bulb, the kind we're all used to seeing as the green alternative to the old (and might I add, more egg-shaped) bulbs.
Place the heat bulb on the outside of the cage.
Otherwise choose a heat bulb, night bulb or ceramic heat emitter.
You can also place an overhead light with a heat bulb in it.
Provide a temperature gradient by placing a heat mat under the cage or an infrared heat bulb above.
Another way to heat the cage is to get a dome light and for the bulb use a red heat bulb because the leopard geckos cannot see the head from the light so this will not disturb them.
Therefore, we placed 150 W infra-red heat bulbs (IOT/90, Elstein, Northeim, Germany) at the vortex of each block.
You can also use a nighttime bulb (black, red or blue coated heat bulbs).
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