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Bottura says that when he opened Francescana the local borghesi — few of whom actually thought to eat there — were instantly suspicious, convinced that no one could cook better than the way they had always cooked, meaning exactly the way their mothers and grandmothers, and all the mothers before them, had.
These were families who had attended community-centre cookery classes, or who came from families that had always cooked.
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"The ability to cook well is impressive and gets you enormous kudos," said Brian Loube, 37, a new-media producer in Manhattan who has always cooked for his girlfriends.
On the whole I am happy to cook the way I have always cooked, but I realize it is easy to become constrained by prejudice or fear.
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