Sloan's multidivisional ("M-form") structure was meant to be an antidote to the very bureaucratic gumminess it was later taken to exemplify.
It is sweet, with some gumminess that eventually dissolves in the mouth.
This is the way a product interacts with the mouth, as defined more specifically by a host of related sensations, from dryness to gumminess to moisture release.
Day-Lewis adds more flour to the fruit itself, possibly as a thickener, but, save for the base layer, I don't think this is necessary: the stewed apple will do that job with considerably less risk of gumminess.
It gauges the most important rheological properties of a food - the bounce, creep, breaking point, density, crunchiness, chewiness, gumminess, lumpiness, rubberiness, slipperiness, smoothness, softness, wetness, juiciness, spreadability, springback and tackiness.
(The quotation marks are the menu's; it's not clear what they signify, other than gumminess).
The serrano ham, strangely undersalted, was reduced to a footnote to its date filling, but the dates, smoothed to a kind of paste, were extraordinary, all bright fruit flavor, with no gumminess or murky sweetness.
