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The best is a meaty, slightly gamy grilled quail ($16.95), subtly flavored with sage and a judicious touch of truffle oil, served with firm grilled polenta.
It also makes an excellent match for grilled quail, grilled vegetables and barbecued pork or chicken.
Starters include arugula salad with shaved fennel, mushrooms and Parmesan cheese; grilled quail with artichoke and almonds; and grilled sea scallops with Meyer lemon gremolata.
Take the appetizer of grilled quail.
Earthy grilled quail ($15.95) is a frequent special.
A more orthodox appetizer is grilled quail with white hominy.
Instead, they stood around eating devilled eggs and bites of grilled quail.
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And something about the symmetry of the grilled-quail halves with hominy makes it seem as if Laakkonen is going for a laugh.
The generously portioned entreés are where Carmellini reveals his enthusiasm: tender duck breast with pecan-studded dirty rice; succulent grilled quail with cashew mole and a poblano kick.
But the kitchen regained its footing with a special appetizer of grilled quail with risotto and a tangle of grilled green onions — flavors and textures that bolstered and lifted one another.
Anita Eisenhauer has added some international notes to the brief American menu, with dishes like grilled quail and warm quinoa, an appetizer served with golden raisins and marinated red cabbage in a balsamic reduction.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com