In a restaurant that has already received accolades for its use of seasonal ingredients, and is justifiably respected for its turbot and its duck foie gras, it is an added delight to see the owner of many years pass nightly amongst his awe-struck clients asking if they are satisfied with their meals.
Prized by the Japanese as the maritime equivalent of foie gras, it's fiercely rich and unmistakably piscine, but its accompaniments here are whip-smart: beetroot to mirror the sweetness, sea purslane for the brine, blood orange for a welcome flood of citrus.
If it were to take a stand against foie gras, it wouldn't exactly be breaking new ground.
Despite Wallsé's liberal use of lobster and foie gras, it has maintained a neighborhood demeanor.
Along with bow-tie pasta gratin and slivers of sautéed foie gras, it is a stunning dish.
Foie gras, it is reasonable to assume, would be rather less popular on restaurant menus if denoted more literally as "force-fed bloated goose liver".
And I understand that when people stuff it with truffles and foie gras it gets up there, but a great roast chicken is a great roast chicken and it doesn't go for more than three bucks a pound".
Pekin duck (the kind from Long Island, not Beijing) is wrapped around foie gras; it might be too high-toned and precious if Israeli couscous with North African spices didn't provide an impish counterpoint.
Westminster's trading standards department has warned the store that if it does not amend the policy, or make it clear that it does not cover foie gras, it could be in breach of consumer protection laws and leave itself open to legal action.
Besides revealing cheap substitutes, such as the use of pork liver in the pâté de foie gras, it can be used to reassure those with strict food preferences and to test animal feed for vertebrate byproducts--a growing concern because of bovine spongiform encephalopathy.
