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Oyster lovers should begin with a sampling from the list of a dozen fresh varieties, although all of them are not always on hand.
At Eataly, Fifth Avenue and 23rd Street, there are 16 fresh varieties, from silver dollars ($6.80 a pound) to bluefoots ($49.30 a pound).
The puff pastry on the apple tart was a bit tough, and it was a shame that dried apples were used, especially this season, when even supermarkets carry several fresh varieties from local growers.
McPhail, who has won the James Beard Award as Best Chef - South as well as other accolades, admits that his focus on fresh varieties means constant adjustments, for the kitchen and the restaurant staff.
Each of the fresh varieties is available during a different period from June through September.
Luteolin is found in both the dried and fresh varieties of most herbs.
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They're good, but I prefer the sharper taste of the fresh variety.
A few pieces of dried mushroom are probably at their most useful when commandeered to beef up anything in which you have used the fresh variety.
Claudia Roden and Ottolenghi use the fresh variety, and Roden even peels them, while Packer and Srulovich's Honey & Co Baking Book calls for tomato puree diluted with water.
For clam aficionados, the Doxsee Sea Clam Company of Point Lookout, on Long Island, offers not only the fresh variety but also its own Manhattan and New England clam chowder.
Herbs are good, too: as much of the fresh variety as you like, but only a sparing amount of the dried: just 6-8g per kg.
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