The show put a focus on fabric and pattern and Mr. Chalayan made those his own with blurry, off-focus digital patterns.
It was more like a visit to old haunts, with all his newfound fashion sophistication: a focus on fabric research and his ability to control the materials in tailored shapes.
"My starting point was menswear, the DNA of the house — with more contemporary looks, very light, feminine and sophisticated," said Mr Dell'Acqua, who interpreted that as minimal silhouettes with a focus on fabric.
Billy Reid's rustic luxe lineup included a poncho or two as well, but it was the focus on fabric that made the Alabama-based designer's jackets, coats and cardigans serious contenders, specifically a basket weave design in cashmere that looked winter-weight rugged but moved like a summer breeze.
Once again Eres set its sights on building collections that focused on fabric technology and ergonomic design.
Others were focused on fabric, offering subtle mixes of cotton and linen or washed duchess satin to contrast with metallic Lurex.
The designer Paul Surridge has a real feeling for hyper-modern sportswear, focusing on fabric innovation, which is part of Zegna's brand character.
The Etro show was so focused on fabric that there were times when it seemed that the designer had taken a stretch of material, draped it at a slant across the body — and left it at that.
She also receives a chapter in BAUHAUS WOMEN: ART, HANDICRAFT, DESIGN (Flammarion, $39.95), by the German historian Ulrike M r, which has mini-biographies of 20 designers who focused on fabric, ceramics, metalwork, photography, theater sets or toys.
