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Ali has a kind face, slicing the feta slab almost lovingly.
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That slab of feta transformed a modest medley of veggies into a specialty dish for which restaurateurs could charge more.
That was also true of the salads we tried: the classic Greek salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, onions and olives crowned with slabs of feta, and an especially large and crunchy salad of chopped romaine hearts with crumbled feta and the fresh taste of dill.
The best bet was the roasted beet salad crowned with a slab of creamy feta and sparked by navel oranges and fresh mint.
But, by my third day, I found myself hankering after a cool slab of salty feta, just a simple bowl of garlicky olives - anything but another serving of contemporary fusion cuisine.
At $11, it is by far the most expensive appetizer, although it resembles a plate that many Iranian restaurants put out on the table free — slabs of milky feta, stacked like bricks in an ancient wall, fragrant heaps of mint and purple basil, and crisp wedges of raw onion mild enough to eat like an apple.
Less so were the falafel patties, stamped by machine; the stuffed grape leaves, which looked and tasted manufactured; the feta cheese dip, marred by hard slabs of out-of-season tomato; and stuffed cabbage leaves, which were cold and slightly slippery.
Roasted Feta With Thyme Honey 1 8-ounce slab Greek feta, blotted dry 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon Greek thyme honey, or other honey Freshly ground black pepper Greek-style pita bread, toasted and cut into wedges Heirloom tomatoes, roasted beets, nuts or pickled vegetables (optional).
A choice of doorstep sandwiches includes a feta and homemade pesto, and a breakfast sandwich (bacon, sausage and free-range egg), all on slabs of local Chough Bakery bread.
On Sunday night, as people filed in to Da Prato's cozy loft, she passed around an entrancing appetizer a hefty slab of pink rock salt covered in cubes of watermelon, themselves topped with a dab of feta mousse and smothered in edible petals.
There are sometimes scrambled egg burritos supplemented with morita chile salsa and slabs of breakfast sausage made from that sustainable Cook Pig Ranch pork, or with bacon, Brussels sprouts and feta.
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