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People described the shift from teff and enjera, the customary fermented bread of Ethiopia, to wheat flour and bread in these terms.
Pulling all the disparate elements together is the injera, the spongy fermented bread imprinted with bubbles that tastes faintly of sourdough and resembles huge crepes.
The Hunzakut people fascinate me – particularly their recipes, so many of which are steeped in folklore – such as diram phitti, a sweet, fermented bread cake made with germinated wheat flour, eaten during the Thummushiling festival for the vernal equinox.
Sometimes a trader with a barrel on wheels arrived to sell milk or kvas (a drink made from fermented bread) and tiny people in tiny jackets, like beads on a string, formed a queue.
There are two cathedrals and eight churches on the grounds, as well as two cafes, serving local must-tries: homemade bread, pastries and kvas (a soft drink made with fermented bread).
Nevertheless, there were surreal moments, such as when a man from the town of Kirov grabbed the microphone to complain that major supermarkets such as the French chain Auchan were refusing to stock the locally made brand of kvas, a fermented bread drink.
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But long-fermented breads are also better digested than conventionally made ones.
It is in a tiny unit beneath a railway bridge, and the bakery specialises in serious sandwiches (baba ganoush and roasted peppers; meatloaf and Swiss cheese), served on its own slow-fermented breads.
But then she installed a baker who makes slow-risen, wild-fermented breads; a curing specialist who ages astonishing salumi and hams; and a chef, Justin Smillie, who roasts the best short ribs I've ever tasted.
Generally, sour-dough bread showed better potential over yeast-fermented breads in terms of preserving β-glucan Mw and viscosity during baking process when a blend of whole wheat flour and oat bran was used.
Often, a bittersweet beverage called kvas made from fermented rye bread is used for the broth instead of yogurt, but this creamy version is more popular in the 'Stans, where fermented milk products have long formed a cornerstone of the local diet.
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