I could be happy just ordering appetizers, or, as Fatty's calls them, Monstrous Little Plates.
The crispy, fatty and moist pork belly appetizer delivers an Asian crunch from thin-sliced cabbage, and fruity notes from apple-beet jam.
A "surf and turf" appetizer salad combined tender, fatty skirt steak and a skewer of fried shrimp over greens and slivered red onions with a high-powered mustard vinaigrette — all of it in a tostada basket.
Rhubarb and drips of passion fruit syrup cut the fatty richness of a beautifully caramelized rectangle of pork belly appetizer.
One nonseafood appetizer deserves a paragraph of its own: four meaty, fatty baby-back ribs "smothered," as the menu says, "in a smoky guava glaze 'to die for.' " Well, you would die happy.
You can thinly slice and add it to appetizers, sides and main dishes alike, especially those containing citrus or fatty ingredients like avocado.
My favorite dishes were those that featured ingredients with strong, distinct flavors, like an appetizer of smoked herring and warm potatoes ($9) or the entrée of salty, fatty and satisfying Toulouse sausages ($13.50).
Consider an appetizer of fresh scallion pasta (bright green, but doughy and inelegantly made) with smoked gingered duck (large, fatty slices of the breast) in a truffle fumet.
Mr. Ferguson strikes a fattier, messier note with an appetizer of marrow, but instead of asking you to scoop it from bones and sprinkle it with fleur de sel, he extracts, poaches and caramelizes it.
