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And much, much more: "Anything you can do to an oyster, you can do to a duck heart," he enthuses.
Sceptics deride both that claim and the principle behind it.An example is Oscillococcinum, a homeopathic treatment for flu symptoms made with extract of duck heart and liver.
He fills them with a stuffing of duck, foie gras, bits of pork throat and shoulder, duck heart and liver, shallots, garlic, thyme and bay leaf that has marinated overnight in Cognac and white wine.
My favorite Italian restaurant in Chicago, with duck heart sliced over thick garlic toast, superior fritto misto, fried artichokes that bring Rome to mind and roasted turbot as good as it gets.
The menu: unagi terrine with ruby red grapefruit and grilled duck heart; bob white quail in a coriander crust, served with chicken liver and watermelon radish; sea urchin ice cream with white chocolate and guava — each course paired with Dom Perignon.
His first offering to each of the 28 guests lucky enough to score a reservation was a duck heart wrapped in pancetta and wearing a fig. The choice could not have been more apt for this earnest, heartfelt dining "experiment".
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They had a dish on the menu that was thirty duck hearts in curry.
"In Paris, I had duck hearts on skewers with pickled shallots, and in Beaune it was quail hearts.
Chicken and duck hearts are sweet, succulent and firmly textured, like a rich distillation of the essence of the bird.
The menu (mains from £15) changes daily but summer fare has included sweetbreads, squid, duck hearts, samphire and pickled gooseberries.
The dirty rice from Ssam Bar is a meal on its own, embellished with tender duck gizzards and meaty duck hearts.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com