A century ago more white grapes than red grapes were planted in Bordeaux, producing wines that included the sweet whites of Sauternes and Barsac as well as the ocean of dry to semi-dry vin ordinaire that was usually labeled Bordeaux blanc, Entre-Deux-Mers or Graves.
In a similar vein, Domaine Jean-Louis Tissot's Arbois Trousseau, from further north in the Jura, has a pinot noir-like lightness with subtle earthy tones, while the same domaine's dry white Vin Jaune 2008 (£27.50) is all sherry-like yeasty intensity, nuts and hints of curry leaf.
Some other offerings were dark and heavy from intensely flavored, overly reduced sauces: cassoulet, this bean stew highlighted, however, by slices of succulent pork (we wished for more of the duck, as well as for smaller cuts of the meats); standard venison chops; and dry coq au vin.
Muscat is best known as a fortified sweet wine tasting of honey with hints of marmalade, yet a number of winemakers in these regions are increasingly producing a dry Muscat alongside this vin doux naturel.
There was duck aged into wobbly senility, and purple potatoes with buttermilk sauce, and slices of dry-aged beef with a vin cotto sauce run through with fat.
As its name indicates, it is yellow — more like a sweet dessert wine in its look, even though Vin Jaune is as dry as a wine can get.
The International Society for the Study of Vulvovaginal disease (ISSVD) has proposed that VIN should not be graded but described as high-grade VIN lesions only (VIN 2 or VIN 3).
Pour the egg whites and the vin santo or dessert wine over the dry ingredients and blend until all of the dry ingredients are moistened.
While terroirs like Roussillon and Rasteau are clearly excellent for dry wines, it would be a shame if vin doux disappeared.
On the other hand, even the greatest vins doux can cost considerably less than dry wines of equivalent quality or age.
(Louis/Dressner Selections, New York) Wild Rock $15 ★★ ½ Hawkes Bay New Zealand Vin Gris Rosé 2008 Crisp and tangy with dry, refreshing flavors.
