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Even a thin fillet of delicate sole in a white wine sauce retained all its juiciness.
And a simple preparation of delicate sole with lemon and white wine, a special on a Friday night, showed admirable restraint — perhaps an indication of what the new chef brings to the table.
Moroccan chicken, with bites of sun-dried tomato, sliced black olives and orzo, shares menu space with a delicate sole francese and an extraordinarily tender rib-eye in a rich, dusky wine sauce.
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Other specials that scored — at higher prices than the menu offerings — were sautéed soft-shell crabs ($32) and a delicate Dover sole boned at tableside ($36).
The best entrees sampled at a recent meal came from that list: rarely seen Nantucket Bay scallops that were sweet and nutty and a beautifully delicate Dover sole deboned at tableside.
And my favorite entree was not from the feedlot but from the sea: fresh, delicate Dover sole, precisely boned and napped with a classic brown butter and caper sauce that had an almost candied quality.
But these days footwear is flimsy, with plastic parts, or fragile, with a thin, elegant sole, delicate stitching, and glossy leather that aren't made to last.
Another attraction was delicate little fresh sole.
The delicate fillet of sole atop a tasty mélange of asparagus and onions, garnished with a few jumbo shrimp, was another delicious treat.
There was a perfect and subtle sauce for the lamb; delicate, perfectly cooked sole; perfectly cooked asparagus, artichokes and morels with a hollandaise sauce light as foam.
A delicate fillet of sole Provençal baked in parchment with capers, olives, tomatoes and herbs, and a flaky salmon fillet enhanced by a rich horseradish sauce, were both light, lovely entrees.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com