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For a completely different experience, head about an hour northwest into the Russian River Valley, where the climate becomes noticeably cooler and damper, and more conducive to growing delicate grapes like Pinot Noir, or Chardonnay (for sparkling wine).
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We began with a little cup of winter squash soup with a dollop of Gorgonzola, followed by a tiny quail breast with a delicate grape sauce.
I partook of roast squab breast with sautéed chestnuts and dried 'shrooms washed down with Aigle des Murailles, an ubiquitous white in St. Moritz made from the delicate grape Chasselas.
Those flavors stand up better to cooking and reducing than do those of delicate European grapes like chardonnay and sangiovese, and of California table grapes like Thompson seedless.
He recommends a Sonoma county zinfandel by Chris Brockway of Broc Cellars, "that shows how delicate the grape can be if its allowed to show itself unadorned".
If this cider ($14) was lightly chilled and its label covered, a wine expert might guess it was a delicate white grape wine with a pearlike flavor — a typical chardonnay attribute.
Like Riesling, Chenin is a delicate, transparent grape that benefits from an excellent site.
Honey Bee, softer and quieter than her namesake, was as delicate as the grapes themselves.
This delicate, aromatic white grape had become virtually extinct by the 1980s, when Gerovassiliou Winery resuscitated it and turned it into a leading Greek wine, especially in the foreign market.
This trip is giving me masses of ideas to work with!" Half an hour later we pull up at Komodo, another Korean-Mexican-Asian-Californian truck, where somehow find room in our stomachs to try delicate fish and grape tacos with pickled cucumber and sesame oil and pork meatballs that are charred and crisp on the outside and pink and lightly spiced inside.
Mr. Lecomte is the one who has to negotiate the delicate challenges of shipping grapes from far-off vineyards while navigating the myriad demands and questions of his citizen winemakers.
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