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Typical of the inspired modern uses is the superbly delicate dish of scallops, mussels and cockles at Le Bernardin.
The only bulky element of this delicate dish – although rice vermicelli aren't exactly pappardelle, they are surprisingly difficult to get absolutely right (again, see pad thai).
A platter of sautéed mutton, recommended by the waiter as a substitute for the unavailable hot and spicy fish belly, was easily the most delicate dish we ordered.
Enormously better were orecchiette (little pasta "ears") tossed with peas and virtually greaseless pancetta, a remarkably delicate dish; and pennette in a sauce dark and earthy from an outstanding combination of veal stock, porcini mushrooms and prosciutto.
The "G" men of spices also infiltrate the palak paneer, although their presence is muffled, as if ordered to tone down the tough-guy shtick for the delicate dish.
"Sushi had started as a form of preservation," Issenberg says, "but it was becoming precisely the opposite: a way of using the infrastructure of modernity to chaperone a delicate dish around the world".
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These were not delicate dishes, but we were hungry.
This sedate Tuscan trattoria offers simple, lusty yet delicate dishes.
"This is Asian wine for Asian food," he said, noting that the subtle flavors do not overwhelm delicate dishes.
Delicate dishes are less successful, like chicken stuffed with duxelles ($11 a pound), which tasted primarily of salt.
2. Col Legno + (212) 777-4650 231 East Ninth Street East Village $ American Express This sedate Tuscan trattoria offers simple and lusty yet delicate dishes.
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