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It involves a comforting spaetzle appetizer with fresh corn, shards of dark chicken meat and tarragon.
An empanada filled with dark chicken meat had baked too long; the potato-and-onion omelette — a classic — was room temperature, not warm, and tired.
A rich cook-up of chicken pelau ($5), thick rice stew studded with pigeon peas and bits of dark chicken, is also worth considering.
Mr. Chang said: "I use bacon, ham hocks, dark chicken meat and roasted pork bones, and then I deglaze with sake.
The mixiotes, masterfully undersold by the bartender one night as "a mixture of dark chicken in a bag," is a standout.
Tapioca flour creates a lace-like skin on a dark chicken cutlet, and the filigreed surface is all the better for soaking up the gentle heat of a soy-based dipping sauce.
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Chicken pastilla was a slightly sweet, dark meat chicken stew with carrots, topped with a phyllo crust; without the expected cinnamon, it was tasty, but more American chicken potpie than pastilla.
Chicken adobo ($4.95), supremely tender, primarily dark meat chicken, was braised in garlic, bay, vinegar and soy.
Since then, she has attracted at least a dozen takers in the city for culinary treats like her "Tales From the Dark Side Chicken," which she described as a slow-cooked dark meat chicken dish "with truckloads of onions, garlic and ginger".
CHICKEN LARB Adapted from Pam Panyasiri Time: 30 minutes 1 1/4 pounds white or dark meat chicken, finely minced with a knife 1/2 cup long-grain rice 2 tablespoons nam pla 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1 teaspoon sugar 1/4 teaspoon crushed dried chili, or to taste 4 to 6 romaine lettuce leaves 1/2 cup sliced red onion 1/4 cup minced scallions 2 tablespoons cilantro.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com