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Pépin does find some latter-day culinary developments here perplexing, like California's banning of foie gras ("Totally ridiculous"), the fetishizing of organic ingredients ("What's the big deal?") and the larger foraging rage ("This is new?").
Although it originally served food similar to that of a French bistro, it soon acquired a reputation for precision and invention, and has been at the forefront of many modern culinary developments, such as foodpairing, flavour encapsulation and multi-sensory cooking.
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"No, it's 2,000 pounds of pasta," said Michael Romano, the director of culinary development at Union Square events.
"Forget the fizz, forget the buzz; the flavor possibilities are incredible," said Gregory Brainin, director of culinary development for the Jean-Georges restaurant group.
Relatively isolated, its culinary development came without ready access to the coconut milk, palm sugar, and fish sauce that was so prevalent in central and southern Thailand.
"I would say that cooking ability is really minimal," said Janet Andreas, consumer culinary development manager for French's Foods and a 22-year veteran of the company.
Will Skidelsky puts it thus: "A history of Britain's culinary development as told through its cookbooks, this scholarly volume offers a feast of diverting information".
Brian O'Loughlin, director of culinary development at the airline caterer LSG Sky Chefs, said prominent chefs had helped raise health consciousness for airline food.
It seems fair to say that if Jones were less curious — or less in love with food and messing around in the kitchen — this country's culinary development would have been lurching and much delayed.
The focus on seasonal and local lends itself to culinary development, and the eclectic dishes I spotted on the region's menus included manta ray sopes (topped corn tortillas), tuna in jalapeño and sea urchin sauce, and venison tacos.
Mr. Burke, who is in Singapore and Hong Kong right now, learning in restaurants there, is a vice president and director of culinary development for the Smith & Wollensky Restaurant Group, which owns 15 places nationally, including Park Avenue Cafe.
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