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It stood on its hind legs and stretched from Gerard's lap to the edge of the table as he spooned up his soup by candlelight, and he couldn't resist the experiment of extracting a cube of potato from the rich golden broth and feeding it into the eager, mincing mouth.
And a dish humbly listed as "cabbage, beef and onion" turned out to be an inventive, intricate, memorable production: a cube of aged sirloin on a horseradish purée; cabbage stuffed with luscious braised beef; an onion stuffed with cabbage and truffle juice; a cube of potato gratin.
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A pistachio macaron with foie gras was both playful and luxurious, and Mr. Lorenz's riff on potato salad — a cube of potato-and-pickle gelée between thin, crunchy sheets of phyllo — was particularly inspired.
The West Coast garlic chowder was creamy and pungent, studded with cubes of potato and decorated with baked, sliced croutons.
The tiny, crisp cubes of potato laced with mushrooms translated to the best hash browns I'd ever tasted.
Kale leaves were wrapped around tiny cubes of potato and chopped onion and kale; a bouillon was made of green tomato, bay leaf and maté tea.
The soup was a tasty, gutsy homemade brew, dominated by big chunks of white meat, numerous chicken hearts and a few cubes of potato.
It was creamy and rich, just as it should be; tawny with cashews and angular cubes of potato jostling on my spoon with silky oyster mushrooms.
The best side dish was the home fries, tiny cubes of potato and onion, fried till crisp and crowned with a confetti of multicolored peppers.
The tender cubes of potato and melted cheese formed an ideal partnership, with or without the fervent orange and fugitive clove in the brew beside them.
Be sure to try the jumbo shrimp in spicy hot pot: large, heads-on prawns in their shells, tossed with strips of bamboo, leeks, onions, bean sprouts, celery, cubes of potato and slices of crunchy lotus root.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com