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However, its mighty range of 32 cask and craft keg beers is one big, rolling party.
Eleven hand-pulls and three craft keg lines showcase mainly Marble beers.
Prices for the craft keg beers (from £4.60 a pint) can get silly, but it goes with the territory.
Yet, its craft keg beers and upstairs gig space ensure that it is down with "the kids".
Two craft keg lines serve similar beers of distinction, if, sadly, only in two-thirds of a pint measures.
But the place is mobbed: girls' nights out, families, burly chaps in for the craft keg beers and their own St Mary's Ale from local Wylam Brewery.
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There are a few sizes of craft kegs available; the most common are the full-sized 15-gallon "half barrel" kegs.
Total Wine and BevMo! stores both stock some craft kegs; Beverage Warehouse in Del Rey and Ramirez Beverages in Boyle Heights can arrange for special order brews as well.
Which is a relief as, alongside its guest, craft-keg pump and a dedicated William Bros. tap, Meat Bar has a solid, 40+ bottled list, split pretty evenly between established Scottish (Fyne, Brewdog, Harviestoun etc).
It has five craft-keg taps that often feature something creative from Bristol's Wild Beer (craft pints around £5), while its can and bottle menu includes contemporary classics such as Beavertown's Gamma Ray and Redchurch's Great Eastern IPA.
One cask and a couple of craft-keg lines always include at least one IPA from Crafty Dan, Thwaites' boutique brewing arm, which is the least worst of the big-brewery attempts to muscle in on craft beer.
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