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The pleating, which took about five months to get right, was an ingenious way to give a couture technique a sporty attitude.
Consider intarsia lace, a specialty couture technique that involves piecing together lace and rich silk, which is used liberally in both their couture and ready-to-wear collections.
It's not worth our emotional involvement, nor is it clear from the shape that a couture technique revealed a new form.
In major cities of the USSR, and capitals of Soviet satellites, there came to be women state-trained to the highest standards of couture technique who could knock off superb Paris copies for a private clientele, armed with nothing but a tatty copy of Vogue and a bolt of tweed smuggled back by a trade delegation.
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Based around the concept of "creatures that swarm", the dresses are hand-embellished using couture techniques.
"It's couture techniques at prêt-à-porter prices," Mr. Adler said.
"I developed it with a Swiss embroidery company who use traditional couture techniques from the 1950s".
So Berardi's fabrics are heavily embellished and the dresses finished with couture techniques to become "forever pieces".
His recent collections for Jil Sander, in fact, have made clever use of couture techniques with more modern fabrics and bright colors.
A final room has video clips showing how the "hands" create the special couture techniques, for example "budellini," tiny sausages of silk that are exclusive to Valentino.
An injury sustained as a consequence of a fall meant a change of career and, after training in preliminary couture techniques and fashion design at the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture, in 1956 he joined Christian Dior.
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