You eat them standing up at a narrow ledge passing for a counter, crowded with open plastic tubs and metal bins of red onion, jalapeños and whole dried red chiles.
Yet his work is ambivalent, probing the idea of what constitutes a community: that same square also witnessed the only moment when a counter-crowd manifested itself, yearning for a secular country and calling for the release of city spaces from the church's domination.
Most of the landmarks that I've visited display iconic photographs of the movement's labors, largely rooted in the politics and aesthetics of struggle: black youth and integrated Freedom Riders standing, disobediently civil, before snarling police dogs and sneering lunch-counter crowds.
As the students sat at the counters, crowds of white youths gathered in several of the stores.
When you play Levis, you set up behind the grocery counter, the crowd of about 100 stands between you and the bar, and the effect is magical.
The counter is crowded with computers and work orders.
"Sometimes, when the counter gets crowded and a particular sports subject is being discussed or debated, I do get the feeling that I'm this talk-show host running a huge panel.
That afternoon, the first of my many visits to Artopolis Bakery, on 31st Street and 23rd Avenue, there were bohemians, families pushing strollers, and old men in black suits lined up against the counter or crowded at the few wrought-iron tables, dunking cookies in the darkest coffee I'd ever seen.
The scent of burning cherry wood and spice drifts from the smoker in back as silent men in clean aprons transfer mounds of just-cooked meat from the kitchen to wood butcher blocks behind the counter already crowded with other cuts.
The counter was crowded with lunchers and the timid man went clear to the rear so that he might ask inconspicously for a yeast cake One clerk turned to the next and so on down the line all repeating loudly the words Yeast Cake! Finally they handed over the embarrassing little morsel and the poor fellow went cringing out into the street.
Williams, who is white, said the counter-protest crowd was mostly men.
