And out in the kitchen, Marie Rieboul, a caterer who often helps Ms. de Cabrol with her dinners, was cooking veal and mushrooms.
As we admired the ever-changing work of natural art, Mr. Van Over mentioned that sometimes he uses a Tuscan grill, stored next to the fireplace, for cooking veal stew or beef steak.
Throughout the afternoon, instead of feeling, as I had hoped, like Roy de Groot luxuriating in the Alps, I felt a lot like Ray Liotta spinning in the last reel of "Goodfellas," when he's cooking veal for his crippled brother, and the police helicopter is circling overhead, and he and the mule who's carrying the cocaine have to go and get her lucky hat.
The books he wrote with Mr. Franey include "Classic French Cooking" (1970); "Veal Cookery" (1978) and "Craig Claiborne's New York Times Cookbook" (1979).
While the veal is cooking, prepare the puntarelle.
7. Remove veal from cooking liquid, reserving liquid.
The chefs, Mr. Jurado's brother Victor and Richie Ferrado, who was at Windows on the World, are cooking traditional Italian pasta, veal, chicken and fish dishes at entree prices of $12 (spaghetti with tomatoes, basil, garlic and oregano) to $20 (veal Milanese or salmon with asparagus).
No domestic cook in their right mind would even consider making it, not least as it involves cooking a pot of half veal stock/half 'Espagnole' sauce on top of the stove for three days, then passing it through a sieve, and reducing that for a further day or so to the right consistency.
We kept the heart to put in a casserole later on, which I made by cooking it with red wine, veal haunches, onions, garlic, potatoes, and a wee dram of single malt whiskey, the kind that burns your esophagus to shreds after about 45 minutes of drinking it.
You can make the sauce while you're cooking your chicken, lamb, beef, veal, or other meat, if you want to save time.
At Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel-Air, Bolanos is cooking, for example, grilled Marcho Farms veal chop; Dover sole with black trumpet mushrooms and sweet and sour shallots; black truffle pot pie with Jidori chicken; and New Zealand venison with braised red cabbage, chestnut puree and Marasca cherries.
