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Mr Li had been picking cockles for only a fortnight before the tragedy.
Estuary Fish has been serving cockles for over 30 years and is home to the widest selection of shellfish.
Not that it was ever really hot stuff, most of the nation's wintry successes coming via the ice age of daredevil bobbers, sequinned skaters or the inimitable dancing feet of T and D. So it is heartening to learn that there is a teenage skier whose burgeoning talent is warming the cockles for the future.
All were working illegally, picking cockles for hours on end to send money back to their families.
By chance he ordered cockles for lunch and the smell brought back a memory of the seaside town of Morecambe: this gave him "the idea of a faded North Country accent and the suggestion of a scrappy moustache".
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Benson, like many local fishermen, believes it was the negligence not only of the gangmasters but also of the authorities that was responsible for the tragedy: "In the summer of 2003, I rescued 50 to 60 Chinese folk who were stranded while cockling for a gangmaster … That should have been a warning".
The menu is short and to the point, usually five or six plates, including such creations as Ovo 63.8 – an egg poached with scientific accuracy, served on smoked potato purée with a scattering of piquant chorizo – and berberechos "espresso" – the freshest of cockles, steamed for just 10 seconds.
And the cockles of those nostalgic for Thatcherism may be warmed by the fact that this is the first sale of a government asset where there is a large-scale initiative to sell shares to the general public since the heyday of privatisations in the late 1980s and early 1990s.
Like most of the men in the Cumbrian town of Flookburgh, Ian McClure has fished all his life: for shrimps, for mussels and for cockles.
But sometimes, she wants to stand in the rain feeling sorry for herself eating gritty cockles from a polystyrene pot with a little wooden fork.
The population density (number of individuals per sampling area) of the blood cockles was calculated for each set of sampling data for late-January and mid-March.
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CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com