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And Ms. Foster, a literary talent agent, was as happy as a clam in a low, leather Jean Prouvé armchair from Vitra until she realized she was basically trapped on the ground.
But I followed it up with parihuela ($15.95), a classic Peruvian bouillabaisse overflowing with soft, yielding chunks of fish that contrasted with chewy squid and clam in a rich red broth.
It was so good that I got carried away and hurtled through a half-dozen more dishes, including meaty slices of jumbo clam in a tart sauce of green tea, sea salt and yuzu juice (citrus juice and minced hot chilies), and thinly sliced poached duck with a gingered soy-and-red-wine reduction.
Place each clam in a top shell to assemble clams on a half-shell, or prepare the clams according to a recipe.
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A clam in an underwhelming cold seafood platter had a metallic tang, while an American strip loin had a sourness that didn't taste like aging or, for that matter, like anything anyone intended.
Wash the clams in a similar fashion.
Pen clams in a concentrated broth with pea flowers were part of an early menu.
As did a generous serving of surf clams in a bright broth of fennel and dill.
For pasta, simply heat the unopened clams in a pan with olive oil until they open.
The seafood, including grilled hake with clams in a parsley sauce, was the best bet.
Meanwhile, put the clams in a colander and rinse well under running water.
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